When looking through the itineraries of the various tour companies to select just the right tour, we noticed that accommodation was often in a riad. This was a new word to us, so we had to check it out. A riad is the name given to a traditional home in a Medina that doesn’t have any external windows onto the street. When entering through the usually massive wooden doors, you will see either a fountain or a small garden in the middle of the house. A riad normally has at least two storeys, frequently three or four, and a terrace around the courtyard. The windows of the rooms overlook the inner garden. The design allows people to relax in the shade especially during hot summer nights. The inside of a riad is quite cool especially overnight which makes it a perfect shelter from the heat. On the other hand, sun-lovers will also be satisfied as every riad has a rooftop terrace where you can sunbathe, and many have a small pool. We thoroughly enjoyed our riad stays; each one was different with its own ambiance. It would seem that many are privately owned, so you don’t have that feeling of being in a cookie cutter Holiday Inn where you could be anywhere in the world. The riads that have been converted into holiday accommodation have been renovated to include all “all mod cons”, while retaining traditional decorating style - lots of tile and marble. While the buildings have been retrofitted with plumbing and wiring, installing elevators would be a bridge too far. Dining was either on the ground floor or top floor, with sleeping quarters on the floors in between. If climbing stairs is a challenge, you may want to look for alternative accommodation. Since the riads are usually inside the Medina, the mini tour bus parks outside the city gates; luggage is taken from the city walls to the riad on a cart of some description.
At Chez Momo in Ouirgaine, we had a totally different experience - this accommodation was a series of bungalows scattered around a walled garden setting; the gardens were filled with flowers, and all well maintained.
But nothing could compare with the “marshmallow camping” experience at Merzouga on the fringes of the Sahara where we camped in the magnificent Erg Chebbi Dunes. The tents are semi-permanent replete with double bed, shower, toilet and electricity. There were several camps of varying standards close by, separated by mammoth dunes. Food and entertainment were provided by young men who looked after the camp site. It was recommended that we get up early the next morning to take in the sunrise. After climbing to the top of an adjacent sand dune, the sunrise was, unfortunately, only “average” - but not enough to diminish the overall enjoyment of the experience of camping in the Sahara.
In Casablanca and Essaouira, we stayed in “regular hotels” - they seemed sterile, lacking in character compared to our riad stays.
Clearly, accommodation providers have recognized that using Riad to describe their accommodation is a smart marketing move. At the overnight stop in Äit Benhaddou, our accommodation was called Riad Maktoub, however, it more resembled a motel somewhere in the south west United States than a true Moroccan riad.
Peregrine Tours is to be complimented for their selection of accommodation.