The traditional culture of Morocco is Berber, but within the Berber traditions there are sub-groups based on geographic regions e.g. the Middle Atlas, High Atlas, coastal regions etc. The Berbers have been here for millennia; while never defeated - a matter of pride for Berbers, they have been “dominated” by Arabs, and “protected” by the French. Today 99% of the population is Arab/Berber, but was more diverse down through the centuries. Until recently Arabic was the only official language, with Berber only becoming an official language in recent years. Morocco has been home to a thriving Jewish community for centuries; however, since the formation of Israel, the Jewish presence is now a pale shadow compared to 100 years ago. Indicative of the size and influence is the size of the Jewish cemeteries in the major cities. In southern Morocco there is an African demographic component referred to as the Gnaoua focused on the city of Essaouira, now home to a major International music festival. The Gnaoua were originally brought to this part of the country by the Berbers to be slaves. Gnaoua music originating in the Sahel is a hybrid of Sufi and pre-Muslim music with a hypnotic focus.
Although dominantly a Muslim country, there is a live and let live attitude that survives to this day. You can live a life outside societal norms and not be harassed, as long as you don’t create a fuss. For example, you are free to follow your own religious beliefs be they Christian, Jewish or Hindu - just don’t try and impose your views or beliefs on others. There is a gay community in Morocco, which is not persecuted, just don’t try and hold a gay pride parade.
Whilst the vast majority of the population does not consume alcohol, it is quite easy to purchase wine and spirits. We were proof of that! Lahcen, our guide is a practising Muslim; he took us to wine stores; he sat with us at dinner where the tour group shared wine. However, he did not consume any wine, nor would he touch the wine bottle, even when empty.
The changing role of women in society was much in evidence - perhaps not so much to us, but certainly to Lahcen. There are now women police officers, train drivers and even tour guides! Women dressed in very varied styles anything from typical western, but more covered up, to the traditional head scarf to the complete veil.
Traditionally, families in smaller rural communities would not send their daughters away from home to attend school, but boys would be sent to live with relatives. Lahcen told us that he would not stand in the way of his daughters leaving home to study, even if that meant overseas.
A nomadic lifestyle is still common in the more remote mountainous areas. We learned that the government has tried to provide education for the children of nomads - teachers would follow the nomads to deliver the curriculum, but the nomads were not interested.
Change is not everywhere - for example, the massive Mosque Hassan II which overhangs the Mediterranean shoreline in Casablanca, can accommodate 25,000 worshippers, but with space for only 5,000 for women!
No reference to culture would be complete if there were no mention of cuisine. Morocco has a distinct cuisine, none more so than the tajine - a form of slow cooking meat or fish along with fruit and vegetables inside a clay vessel. Harira, another traditional dish synonymous with Morocco is a soup blending tomatoes, lentils and chick peas. Mint tea was served everywhere, always with the option of adding lots of sugar! Orange juice is another popular Moroccan beverage, often with additional sugar! As a result diabetes is a major health problem.
Traditional values are maintained in the small villages which dot the country, but changes are already underway with the drift to the cities as they are in many other countries. The extended family structure is being eroded by this trend, as well as changing domestic architecture and design.